Unit 4: Fashion and Society

Overview:
Fashion is not created in a vacuum; it is a dynamic social phenomenon that acts as a mirror to the times. This unit explores the interconnected relationship between fashion and the external environment, categorizing influences into five major pillars: Social, Economical, Cultural, Geographical, and Technological.

1. Social Factors

Social factors refer to the organization of individuals within a society, including class structures, gender roles, demographics, and collective behavior.

A. Social Class and Status

• differentiation: Historically, clothing was the primary indicator of social rank. Sumptuary laws once forbade commoners from wearing certain colors (e.g., royal purple) or fabrics (e.g., silk/velvet).
• Conspicuous Consumption: A theory by Thorstein Veblen suggesting that people acquire luxury goods specifically to display economic power and social status.
• White Collar vs. Blue Collar: The distinction in workwear (suits for office workers vs. durable denim/uniforms for laborers) created visual class divides, though these lines are blurring with the rise of casualization.

B. Gender Roles and Identity

• Evolution of Women’s Wear: The shift from restrictive corsets to the flapper dresses of the 1920s, and later the "Power Suit" of the 1980s, parallels the social liberation of women and their entry into the workforce.
• Androgyny and Unisex Fashion: Modern society's shifting views on gender fluidity have popularized gender-neutral clothing, challenging traditional binary aesthetics (e.g., men wearing skirts, women wearing oversized streetwear).

C. Subcultures and Group Identity

• Tribalism: Fashion allows individuals to signal membership to a specific group while excluding others.
• Examples of Subcultures:
  • Punk: Rebellion against the status quo using safety pins, ripped clothes, and Mohawks.
  • Preppy: Signifies Ivy League education and upper-class leisure.
  • Hip Hop: Originated as a voice for marginalized urban youth, now a dominant global aesthetic (sneaker culture, logos).

D. Influence of Media and Celebrities

• Trickle-Down Theory: Trends start with the elite/celebrities and move down to the masses.
• Influencer Culture: The shift from movie stars to social media influencers (Instagram/TikTok) has democratized fame, making trends cycle faster ("Micro-trends") based on viral social moments.

2. Economical Factors

The economic state of a nation or the global market dictates what is produced, how much it costs, and what consumers are willing to buy.

A. Economic Cycles

• The Hemline Index (George Taylor, 1926): A theory suggesting that skirt lengths get shorter during economic booms (confidence, expensive hosiery is affordable) and longer during recessions (austerity, hiding older stockings).
• The Lipstick Effect: During economic downturns, consumers still want to buy goods, but they switch to smaller, affordable luxuries (like lipstick) rather than expensive items (like coats or bags).

B. Disposable Income and Purchasing Power

• Luxury vs. Necessity: High levels of disposable income fuel the Haute Couture and luxury ready-to-wear markets. Low disposable income shifts focus to durability and necessity.
• Fast Fashion: The demand for affordable, trendy clothing driven by middle-class economics led to the rise of giants like Zara and H&M, prioritizing low cost over longevity.

C. Globalization and Trade

• Outsourcing: Economic pressure to lower prices led to the migration of manufacturing from the West to developing nations (e.g., Bangladesh, Vietnam, China) to utilize lower labor costs.
• Supply Chains: Global inflation or trade tariffs directly impact the retail price of a garment.

D. Occupational Changes

• The Gig Economy: As more people work from home or in freelance roles, sales of formal business wear (suits, ties, heels) have declined in favor of "Athleisure" and comfort-wear.

3. Cultural Factors

Culture encompasses the beliefs, arts, customs, and traditions of a community. Fashion is a visual language of culture.

A. Tradition and Heritage

• Traditional Dress: Clothing often preserves cultural history.
  • Examples: The Kimono (Japan), Saree (India), Kilt (Scotland), Kaftan (West Africa).
• Ceremonial Wear: Cultural rites of passage dictate specific attire (e.g., White for Western weddings vs. Red for Indian weddings; Black for Western mourning vs. White for Eastern mourning).

B. Religion

• Modesty Norms: Religious beliefs heavily influence silhouettes and coverage.
  • Islam: Hijab, Abaya.
  • Sikhism: Turbans.
  • Amish: Plain dress to signify humility and separation from worldly vanity.
• Impact on Mainstream: The "Modest Fashion" market has grown significantly, influencing high-fashion brands to create collections catering to religious requirements.

C. Art and Pop Culture

• Art Movements: Fashion often mimics art.
  • Pop Art: Andy Warhol’s influence on 1960s color-blocking and prints (Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dress).
  • Art Deco: Influenced the geometric beading and drop-waist silhouettes of the 1920s.
• Music: Music genres act as catalysts for fashion movements (Grunge in the 90s driven by Nirvana; Disco in the 70s driven by Studio 54).

D. Cultural Appropriation vs. Appreciation

• Appreciation: Respectfully using cultural elements with credit and understanding.
• Appropriation: Dominant cultures adopting minority cultural elements (e.g., Native American headdresses at festivals) without understanding their sacred significance, often for profit.

4. Geographical Factors

Geography determines the physical environment in which people live, which dictates the functional necessities of their clothing.

A. Climate and Weather

• Protection: The primary function of clothing is protection against elements.
  • Cold Climates: Usage of furs, wool, down feathers, and layering (e.g., Inuit parkas).
  • Hot/Humid Climates: Loose silhouettes, breathable fabrics like linen and cotton, light colors to reflect sun (e.g., Thobes in the Middle East).

B. Availability of Raw Materials

• Local Sourcing: Historically, fashion was defined by what grew nearby.
  • China/Japan: High availability of silk led to silk-based fashion.
  • Egypt: Abundance of flax led to linen production.
  • Australia/UK: Sheep farming led to a dominance in wool and tweed industries.

C. Terrain and Lifestyle

• Urban vs. Rural:
  • Urban: Paved streets allow for heels, sneakers, and streetwear. Pollution may influence protective gear (masks).
  • Rural: Agricultural terrain necessitates boots, denim, and durable workwear (e.g., Cowboy boots with heels to stay in stirrups).

5. Technological Factors

Technology influences how fashion is designed, manufactured, marketed, and worn.

A. Textile Innovation

• Synthetics: The invention of Nylon (1930s), Polyester, and Spandex revolutionized fashion by making clothes cheaper, stretchier, and easier to care for.
• Performance Fabrics: Gore-Tex (waterproofing), moisture-wicking weaves for sportswear, and Kevlar for protection.
• Sustainability: Development of "bio-fabrics" (leather made from mushrooms or pineapple leaves) to combat environmental damage.

B. Manufacturing Technology

• Industrial Revolution: The invention of the mechanical sewing machine (Singer) and the Jacquard Loom moved fashion from "handmade" to "mass production," creating the ready-to-wear industry.
• 3D Printing: Allows for avant-garde shapes and zero-waste production (printing shoes or jewelry on demand).
• Laser Cutting: Enables intricate designs that are impossible to achieve by hand.

C. Digital Fashion and E-Commerce

• E-Commerce: Online shopping changed consumer behavior, enabling global access to trends instantly.
• AI and Data: Algorithms predict trends before they happen, helping brands reduce overstock.
• The Metaverse: "Digital-only" clothing (NFTs/skins) for avatars in gaming and virtual reality is an emerging market where physical production is unnecessary.

D. Wearable Technology

• Smart Textiles: Fabrics that can change color, regulate body temperature, or monitor health vitals (e.g., Apple Watch, heated jackets, garments with solar cells).

Summary Table: Factors Influencing Fashion