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Practice MCQ

Unit 3 - Notes

FST801

Unit 3: Language of Fashion

1. Fashion Cycles

The fashion cycle describes the lifespan of a trend, tracking its movement from introduction to obsolescence. Understanding these cycles is crucial for merchandising, forecasting, and design.

A. The Five Stages of the Fashion Cycle

  1. Introduction: New styles are introduced by designers (usually at high price points/Haute Couture). Adopted by "Fashion Innovators."
  2. Rise: The style gains acceptance. Adaptations and copies appear at lower price points. Adopted by "Early Adopters" and "Fashion Leaders."
  3. Culmination (Peak): The style is at the height of popularity and mass availability. Adopted by the "Mass Market."
  4. Decline: Boredom sets in; consumers look for new alternatives. Items go on clearance.
  5. Obsolescence: The style is rejected and arguably "out of fashion."

B. Types of Fashion Cycles

1. Classic

A style or design that satisfies a basic need and remains in general fashion acceptance for an extended period.

  • Characteristics: Simplicity of design, functional, versatile, rarely undergoes drastic changes.
  • Visual Graph: A straight horizontal line or a very gentle, long arc.
  • Examples: The Little Black Dress (LBD), denim jeans, the trench coat, white button-down shirts, pearl necklaces, blazer.

2. Fad

A fashion that sweeps into popularity with a specific group of people and then quickly disappears.

  • Characteristics: Usually exaggerated features, often cheaper to produce, relies on novelty rather than utility.
  • Visual Graph: A sharp spike upward followed immediately by a sharp drop.
  • Examples: Silly Bandz, shutter shades, neon leg warmers (80s), fidget spinners (in accessory form).

3. Interrupted Cycle

A cycle that is halted prematurely due to external influences rather than consumer rejection.

  • Causes: War, economic depression, trade embargos, or global pandemics.
  • Outcome: Once the external restriction is lifted, the trend often resumes and completes its cycle.
  • Historical Example: The suspension of nylon stocking production during WWII diverted resources to parachutes; the trend resumed immediately after the war.

4. Recurring Cycle (Cyclical Fashion)

Styles that resurface after a period of obsolescence. Fashion is often described as evolutionary rather than revolutionary, meaning old trends are reinvented.

  • The 20-Year Rule: Trends often return approximately every 20 years (nostalgia cycles).
  • Differentiation: When a trend recurs, it is never exactly the same; it is updated with modern fabrics, silhouettes, or styling to fit the current zeitgeist.
  • Examples: The return of 1970s bell-bottoms in the 1990s and again in the 2020s (as "flares"); the resurgence of 90s grunge in the 2010s; the Y2K aesthetic revival in the 2020s.

2. Fashion Theories (Movement of Fashion)

These theories explain how trends spread through society and who initiates the change.

A. Trickle-Down Theory (Downward Flow)

  • Origin: Historically associated with Thorstein Veblen (theory of the leisure class) and Georg Simmel.
  • Premise: Fashion is dictated by the elite (upper class) and gradually copied by the lower classes.
  • Mechanism:
    • The elite adopt a style to display wealth and differentiation.
    • The middle/lower classes imitate this style to aspire to higher status.
    • Once the lower classes adopt it, the elite discard the style for a new one to maintain distinction.
  • Relevance: Less dominant today due to democracy in fashion, but still visible in Haute Couture influencing bridge brands.

B. Trickle-Up Theory (Upward Flow)

  • Origin: Gained prominence in the mid-20th century, accelerated by the youth quakes of the 1960s.
  • Premise: Fashion trends begin in the streets, among youth groups, or subcultures, and are eventually adopted by top designers and mass media.
  • Mechanism:
    • Subcultures (punks, skaters, hip-hop artists) create unique looks based on creativity rather than money.
    • High-fashion designers scout these looks for "authenticity" and refine them for the runway.
  • Examples:
    • Denim: Originally workwear now luxury staple.
    • Grunge: Thrift store flannel/distressed items Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis (1992).
    • Streetwear: Skate culture/Hoodies Supreme/Louis Vuitton collaborations.

C. Trickle-Across Theory (Horizontal Flow / Mass Market)

  • Origin: Developed with the rise of mass production and modern mass media (internet/social media).
  • Premise: Fashion moves horizontally between groups on similar social levels rather than vertically from one level to another.
  • Mechanism:
    • Trends are exposed to everyone simultaneously via Instagram, TikTok, and live streams of fashion shows.
    • "Fast Fashion" brands (Zara, H&M) produce knock-offs of runway looks within weeks, making the trend available to the mass market at the same time the luxury version hits boutiques.
  • Key Factor: Speed of information and production is the driver, not class distinction.

3. Brand Study: Iconic Fashion Houses

A. Chanel

  • Founder: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (Founded 1910).
  • Origin: Paris, France. Started as a millinery (hat) shop.
  • Core Philosophy: Functionality and liberation. Chanel freed women from the constraints of the corset, introducing sporty, casual chic as the feminine standard. She borrowed heavily from menswear.
  • Key Iconography & Codes:
    • The Tweed Suit: Boxy, collarless jacket with fitted skirt.
    • The Little Black Dress (LBD): Transformed black from a color of mourning to a color of elegance (1926).
    • The 2.55 Bag: Quilted leather with a chain strap (allowed women to have hands free).
    • Two-tone shoes: Beige to lengthen the leg, black tip to shorten the foot.
    • Chanel No. 5: The first synthetic perfume to bear a designer's name.
    • Camellias and Pearls.
  • Modern Era: Karl Lagerfeld revitalized the brand (1983–2019) by exaggerating these codes. Virginie Viard succeeded him.

B. Louis Vuitton (LV)

  • Founder: Louis Vuitton (Founded 1854).
  • Origin: Paris, France.
  • Heritage: Art of Travel. Vuitton began as a "layetier" (trunk maker/packer). He invented the flat-topped trunk which was stackable (revolutionizing luggage for railways).
  • Key Iconography & Codes:
    • Monogram Canvas: The interlocking LV and floral motifs created in 1896 by Georges Vuitton to prevent counterfeiting.
    • Damier Canvas: The checkerboard pattern.
    • Tumbler Lock: Unpickable lock mechanism.
  • Evolution: Transformed from a luggage brand to a global fashion powerhouse under Marc Jacobs (1997–2013), who introduced Ready-to-Wear (RTW).
  • Modern Era: Known for high-profile collaborations (Yayoi Kusama, Supreme). Recent creative direction by Virgil Abloh (Men's) brought a distinct streetwear/luxury fusion, continued now by Pharrell Williams.

C. Gucci

  • Founder: Guccio Gucci (Founded 1921).
  • Origin: Florence, Italy.
  • Heritage: Started with leather goods and luggage, inspired by the refined aesthetic of English nobility witnessed by Guccio while working at the Savoy Hotel in London.
  • Key Iconography & Codes:
    • The Horsebit: Metal hardware resembling a horse's bit (loafers/bags).
    • Bamboo Handle: Created during WWII due to leather shortages; heated cane handles.
    • The Web: Green-Red-Green stripe inspired by saddle girths.
    • Double G Logo.
  • Evolution:
    • Tom Ford Era (90s): Saved the brand from bankruptcy with "Porno Chic"—sleek, sexy, and provocative.
    • Alessandro Michele Era (2015–2022): "Geek Chic" / Maximalism. Gender-fluid, eclectic, vintage-inspired, clashing prints.

D. Versace

  • Founder: Gianni Versace (Founded 1978).
  • Origin: Milan, Italy.
  • Heritage: Deeply rooted in Southern Italian culture and Greco-Roman history.
  • Core Aesthetic: Unapologetic glamour, overt sexuality, and "Rock and Roll" royalty. Gianni is credited with creating the "Supermodel" phenomenon (Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, etc.).
  • Key Iconography & Codes:
    • Medusa Head: The logo (symbolizing beauty that makes people fall in love with no way back).
    • The Greek Key (Greca): Geometric meander pattern.
    • Baroque Prints: Gold, leopard, and ornate scrollwork.
    • Safety Pins: The "That Dress" worn by Elizabeth Hurley.
    • Oroton: A fluid metal mesh fabric invented by Gianni.
  • Succession: After Gianni’s murder in 1997, his sister Donatella Versace took over, maintaining the brand's bold, empowering feminine aesthetic.

E. Christian Dior

  • Founder: Christian Dior (Founded 1946).
  • Origin: Paris, France.
  • Key Historical Moment: The "New Look" (1947).
    • After the austerity of WWII, Dior reintroduced luxury and hyper-femininity.
    • Silhouette: Rounded shoulders, a cinched waist (the "wasp waist"), and a very full skirt.
  • Key Iconography & Codes:
    • The Bar Jacket: Architectural jacket with a nipped waist.
    • Cannage Quilting: Pattern derived from Napoleon III chairs used at the first salon (seen on Lady Dior bags).
    • Floral Motifs: Dior was obsessed with gardens/flowers (Lily of the Valley).
  • Modern Era: The brand has seen various interpretations under Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano (theatrical/controversial), Raf Simons (minimalist), and currently Maria Grazia Chiuri (first female artistic director, focusing on feminism and wearability).