Unit 5: Most Influential Fashion Trends

1. The S-Bend Corset (The Edwardian Era)

Time Period: Approx. 1900–1908
Also known as: The "Health Corset" or "Straight-Front Corset."

Historical Context

The turn of the 20th century moved away from the Victorian hourglass figure toward the "Gibson Girl" ideal—an image representing the confident, beautiful, and active woman.

Design and Mechanism

• Structure: Unlike the Victorian corset which compressed the waist from all sides, the S-bend featured a straight, rigid busk (center front strip) made of steel.
• The Silhouette: It forced the bust forward and the hips backward, creating an "S" shape when viewed from the profile. This became known as the "Pigeon Pouter" silhouette.
• Intention vs. Reality:
  • Intention: Invented by Inez Gaches-Sarraute (a medical corsetier), it was intended to be healthier by removing pressure from the stomach and abdomen.
  • Reality: It shifted the pressure to the lower back, often causing severe back problems, lordosis (swayback), and altered the wearer's center of gravity.

Fashion Impact

• Resulted in dresses with mono-bosom fronts and trumpet-shaped skirts.
• Marked the final phase of extreme structural undergarments before the loosening of silhouettes in the 1910s and 1920s.

2. The Hobble Skirt (1910s)

Time Period: 1908–1914
Key Designer: Paul Poiret

Design Features

• A skirt characterized by a hemline so narrow that it significantly impeded the wearer’s stride.
• Often accompanied by a "fetter"—a band underneath the skirt to keep the legs together to prevent the fabric from tearing.
• Often featured high waists (Empire line) and draping around the hips, tapering sharply at the ankle.

Cultural Significance

• Paradox of Liberation: Poiret claimed to liberate women from the corset (by introducing draped, Grecian silhouettes), but he simultaneously "shackled the legs" with the hobble skirt.
• Orientalism: Influenced by Middle Eastern and Asian aesthetics, popularized by the costume designs of the Ballets Russes.
• Public Safety: The skirt was notoriously dangerous; women struggled to board streetcars and climb stairs. It led to the modification of streetcar steps in some cities.
• Decline: The trend ended with the onset of WWI, which necessitated practical clothing for women entering the workforce.

3. Flapper Style (The Roaring Twenties)

Time Period: 1920–1929
Key Designers: Coco Chanel, Jean Patou

The "Garçonne" Look

The Flapper aesthetic represented a complete rejection of Victorian/Edwardian morality and structure.

• Silhouette: Tubular, rectangular, and boyish. Curves were flattened rather than accentuated.
• Waistline: Dropped waist (resting on the hips).
• Hemline: Rose steadily throughout the decade, reaching just below the knee (historically short for the time) by 1926–1927.

Key Elements

• Hair: The "Bob" (short, cropped hair), later the "Eton Crop" or "Shingle."
• Accessories: Cloche hats (fitted bell-shaped hats), long strands of pearls, T-strap shoes, and heavy makeup (kohl eyes and cupid’s bow lips).
• Fabric: Advancements in textiles allowed for Rayon (artificial silk) and Jersey to be used widely.

Social Context

• Linked to women's suffrage (right to vote), the Jazz Age, and Prohibition.
• Designed for movement: The loose fit allowed women to dance the Charleston and the Black Bottom.
• Symbolized the "New Woman": One who drove cars, smoked, drank alcohol, and engaged in premarital sex.

4. Bias-Cut Gowns (1930s)

Time Period: 1930s
Key Designer: Madeleine Vionnet ("Queen of the Bias Cut")

Technical Innovation

• The Cut: Instead of cutting fabric along the "grain" (straight up and down), fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle (on the bias).
• Properties: This gives woven fabric elasticity and fluidity without the use of spandex or stretch fibers.

The Silhouette

• Hollywood Glamour: This style defined the "Silver Screen" look of the Great Depression era.
• Fit: The fabric clings to the body, outlining natural curves and draping sensually over the hips and thighs.
• Construction: Often required minimal fastening (zippers were hidden or unnecessary due to the stretch). Backless evening gowns became iconic.

Impact

• Moved fashion away from the boxy 1920s shape back to celebrating the female form, but through natural draping rather than rigid corsetry.
• Required high technical skill in dressmaking; cheap imitations were difficult to mass-produce effectively.

5. The Bikini (1946)

Time Period: Post-WWII (1946 onward)
Inventors: Louis Réard (Engineer) and Jacques Heim (Designer)

Origins and Etymology

• Jacques Heim released a two-piece suit called the Atome (The Atom), advertised as the world's smallest swimsuit.
• Louis Réard released an even smaller version shortly after. He named it the Bikini, named after Bikini Atoll, the site of recent US nuclear bomb tests. The implication was that the suit’s impact would be "explosive."

Design and Controversy

• The Navel: While two-piece suits existed in the 30s and 40s, they covered the navel. The Bikini was the first to expose the belly button, which was considered scandalous.
• Debut: Professional models refused to wear it; Réard had to hire a nude dancer, Micheline Bernardini, to model the first bikini.
• Adoption: The Vatican declared it sinful, and it was banned from beaches in Italy, Spain, and Belgium.
• Popularization: Mainstream acceptance came in the 1950s via cinema, particularly through Brigitte Bardot (And God Created Woman, 1956) and Ursula Andress (Dr. No, 1962).

6. The “New Look” (1947)

Time Period: Late 1940s – 1950s
Key Designer: Christian Dior

The Collection

• Officially titled the "Corolle" (Corolla/flower petal) collection, debuted February 12, 1947.
• Dubbed the "New Look" by Carmel Snow, editor of Harper's Bazaar.

The Silhouette

A radical departure from the boxy, fabric-rationed styles of WWII.

1. Soft Shoulders: Sloping and rounded (no square pads).
2. The Bar Jacket: Fitted bodice.
3. Wasp Waist: Extremely cinched waist (requiring a guêpière or waist cincher).
4. Full Skirt: Utilized excessive amounts of fabric (sometimes 20+ yards), falling to mid-calf.

Impact and Controversy

• Economic: Revitalized the French couture industry after the war.
• Social Criticism: Criticized by feminists and the public in the UK/USA for being wasteful and restrictive during a time of continued post-war rationing.
• Legacy: Re-established Paris as the fashion capital of the world and defined the ultra-feminine aesthetic of the 1950s.

7. The Mini Skirt (1960s)

Time Period: Mid-1960s
Key Designers: Mary Quant (London) and André Courrèges (Paris)

The Look

• Hemline: Rose to several inches above the knee, eventually reaching the upper thigh (micro-mini).
• Styling: Worn with colored tights, go-go boots, and distinct geometric cuts.

Origins

• Mary Quant: Opened the boutique Bazaar on King’s Road, London. She named the skirt after her favorite car, the Mini Cooper. She claimed the girls on the street invented the mini by asking for shorter hems to catch the bus easily.
• Space Age: André Courrèges introduced minis in his "Moon Girl" collection (1964), featuring futuristic materials like PVC.

Social Significance

• Youthquake: Symbolized the dominance of youth culture over elite couture.
• Sexual Revolution: Represented the pill, sexual freedom, and a rejection of the "ladylike" 1950s.
• Class Fluidity: It was a democratic fashion trend worn by both working-class girls and royalty.

8. Platform Heels (1970s)

Time Period: 1970s (Disco / Glam Rock Era)
Key Influences: Biba, David Bowie, Elton John

Design

• Footwear with a thick sole (platform) ranging from 1 to 5+ inches, raising the entire foot, often combined with a high chunky heel.
• Materials included cork, wood, plastic (lucite), and leather.

Cultural Context

• Gender Neutrality: One of the few footwear trends in history worn enthusiastically by both men and women.
• Theatricality: Associated with the "Glam Rock" movement and Disco culture (Saturday Night Fever).
• Silhouette: Provided the necessary height to balance the extremely wide bell-bottom and flared trousers of the decade.
• Revivals: Reappeared in the 1990s (Spice Girls) and 2000s, proving their cyclical nature.

9. Leggings (1980s – Present)

Time Period: 1980s (Aerobics craze) to 2010s (Athleisure)

The 1980s Phase

• Material: Lycra and Spandex blends.
• Context: Driven by the fitness boom (Jane Fonda workout videos).
• Styling: Often shiny, neon-colored, or patterned. Worn under skirts, with oversized sweatshirts, or with high-cut leotards and leg warmers.

The Modern Phase (Athleisure)

• Evolution: In the late 2000s and 2010s, leggings transitioned from gym-only wear to acceptable daywear ("Yoga pants").
• Technology: Improvements in textile technology (moisture-wicking, four-way stretch, compression) made them functional and flattering.
• Cultural Shift: Represents a massive societal shift toward prioritizing comfort and a blur between "active" life and "social" life.

10. Minimalism (1990s)

Time Period: 1990s
Key Designers: Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Prada

Aesthetic Philosophy

• Reactionary: A direct reaction against the excess, glitz, big hair, and power suits of the 1980s.
• "Less is More": Focused on clean lines, neutral palettes (black, white, gray, beige, navy), and high-quality fabrics rather than embellishment.
• Deconstruction: Stripping garments down to their essential forms.

Key Trends within Minimalism

• The Slip Dress: Popularized by Calvin Klein and worn by icons like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and Kate Moss. It looked like undergarments worn as outerwear.
• Heroin Chic: The minimalist clothing often accompanied a waif-like, pale, grunge-influenced physical ideal (marked by Kate Moss), contrasting the athletic supermodels of the 80s.
• Unisex/Androgyny: Introduction of unisex fragrances (CK One) and gender-neutral clothing cuts.