Unit 2: Fashion and terminology

1. Casual Wear

Definition

Casual wear represents the dress code of relaxation, comfort, and informal social interaction. It is clothing unconstrained by strict rules of uniformity or formality. Over the last century, casual wear has evolved from specific utility clothing to the dominant form of dress in the Western world.

Key Characteristics

• Comfort: The primary driver; prioritizes ease of movement and soft textiles.
• Personal Expression: Allows for higher degrees of individuality compared to uniforms or formal wear.
• Versatility: Can transition between various low-stakes environments (home, errands, social gatherings).

Sub-Categories and Terminology

• Leisurewear: Clothing designed specifically for lounging and home use (e.g., sweatpants, hoodies).
• Streetwear: A distinct sub-genre rooted in skate, surf, and hip-hop culture. It emphasizes limited-edition items, logos, sneakers, and oversized silhouettes.
• Smart Casual: A hybrid code often required in modern offices or social events. It combines elements of business wear with relaxed attire (e.g., dark denim with a blazer; a polo shirt with chinos).
• Business Casual: Slightly more formal than smart casual; typically excludes jeans and sneakers but does not require a full suit and tie.

Common Fabrics

• Denim: A sturdy cotton warp-faced twill textile.
• Jersey: A knit fabric used predominantly for T-shirts.
• Flannel: A soft woven fabric, of various fineness.
• Fleece: Insulating synthetic fabric used in casual outerwear.

2. Formal Wear

Definition

Formal wear comprises clothing suitable for formal social events, ceremonies, weddings, and balls. It is the most strictly regulated category of dress, heavily reliant on tradition, etiquette, and protocol.

Levels of Formality (The Dress Codes)

A. White Tie (Full Evening Dress)

The most formal dress code in Western fashion.

• Men: Black tailcoat, black trousers with two satin stripes, white wing-collared shirt, white bow tie, and white waistcoat.
• Women: Full-length ball gowns, typically accompanied by opera-length gloves and fine jewelry.

B. Black Tie (Semi-Formal Evening Dress)

The standard for formal evening events (post-6:00 PM).

• Men: Tuxedo (Dinner Jacket) with satin lapels, black trousers with a single satin stripe, black bow tie, cummerbund or waistcoat.
• Women: Evening gowns (floor length) or sophisticated cocktail dresses.

C. Morning Dress (Formal Day Dress)

Strictly for daytime ceremonies (e.g., Royal Ascot, daytime weddings).

• Men: Morning coat (cutaway), striped trousers, waistcoat.
• Women: Day dress (knee-length or lower) suitable for church/ceremony, often paired with a hat or fascinator.

Key Terminology

• Silhouette: The overall outline or contour of the costume. In formal wear, silhouettes are structured and clearly defined.
• Lapel Types: Notch (casual/business), Peak (formal/traditional), Shawl (black tie/tuxedo).
• Hemline: The level of the lower edge of a garment (crucial distinction between cocktail and gala attire).

3. Sports Wear (Activewear)

Definition

Originally denoting clothing worn for participation in sports, this category has expanded to include "Athleisure"—clothing designed for workouts that is also worn in other settings (work, school, social occasions).

Functional Requirements

• Moisture Wicking: The ability of the fabric to pull sweat away from the body to the exterior of the cloth for evaporation.
• Breathability: Allowing air to circulate to keep the body cool.
• Elasticity (Stretch): Allowing full range of motion.
• Durability: Resistance to tearing and abrasion during physical activity.

Evolution: The Rise of Athleisure

This term describes the intersection of fashion and function. It represents a lifestyle shift where health and wellness are status symbols. Key items include yoga pants, leggings, bomber jackets, and high-end sneakers.

Technical Fabrics

• Spandex / Elastane (Lycra): Provides the necessary stretch.
• Polyester blends: Lightweight and durable.
• Gore-Tex: Waterproof and breathable membrane for outdoor sports.
• Mesh: Used for ventilation panels.

4. Lingerie Wear

Definition

Lingerie refers to women's innerwear or undergarments. The term is derived from the French word linge, meaning linen (the original fabric for underwear). It serves three functions: hygiene, alteration of the silhouette (shapewear), and decoration/eroticism.

Categories

1. Foundational: Designed to support and shape. Includes bras (balconette, plunge, push-up), girdles, and corsets.
2. Daywear: Standard undergarments for daily use (briefs, bikinis, thongs/g-strings, slips, camisoles).
3. Nightwear/Loungewear: Robes, negligees, peignoirs, babydolls, and nightgowns.

Key Terminology

• Corsetry: The craft of making corsets; historically used to cinch the waist and support the bust to achieve an hourglass figure.
• Shapewear: Modern compression garments (e.g., Spanx) designed to smooth the silhouette under clothing.
• Hosiery: Garments covering the feet and legs (stockings, tights, pantyhose). Denier denotes the thickness/opacity of hosiery.

Materials

High reliance on fine fabrics such as silk, satin, lace, chiffon, and sheer mesh.

5. Power Dressing

Definition

A fashion style that emerged prominently in the 1970s and 1980s, designed to enable women to establish authority in professional and political environments traditionally dominated by men. It utilizes clothing to project competence, efficiency, and power.

Historical Context

The 1980s economic boom saw women entering the executive workforce in record numbers. Fashion responded by desexualizing the female form while exaggerating its size to compete with the male silhouette.

Key Elements of Power Dressing

• Shoulder Pads: The defining feature. Used to broaden the shoulders, creating an inverted triangle silhouette that suggests physical strength and assertiveness.
• The Power Suit: Tailored jackets paired with knee-length skirts or trousers.
• Conservative Colors: Navy, black, charcoal, and red (the "power tie" or "power scarf" color).
• High Necklines: Modesty was prioritized to focus attention on professional capability rather than appearance.

Modern Power Dressing

In the 21st century, the definition has softened. While structure remains important, power dressing now includes bold colors, statement jewelry, and a wider variety of silhouettes, symbolizing a woman's confidence to be feminine and powerful simultaneously.

6. Executive Wear

Definition

Also known as Business Attire, this refers to the clothing adopted by professionals in a corporate environment. It is less about the sociological statement of "Power Dressing" and more about adherence to corporate culture, professionalism, and neatness.

Codes of Executive Wear

• Business Professional: The most conservative tier.
  • Men: Matched suit, tie, dress shirt, leather shoes.
  • Women: Pant or skirt suit, closed-toe heels, conservative blouses.
• Business Formal: Similar to professional but strictly for high-stakes events (board meetings, award ceremonies). Darker colors and higher quality fabrics are expected.

Psychology of Executive Wear

• Uniformity: Creates a cohesive visual identity for a company.
• Trust: Clients often associate traditional tailoring with reliability and competence (e.g., in banking or law).
• Authority: Distinguishes management from staff in hierarchal organizations.

Wardrobe Staples

• The Blazer: The anchor of the executive wardrobe.
• The Pencil Skirt: A slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut.
• The Oxford Shirt: A classic button-down dress shirt.
• Loafers/Oxfords/Pumps: Acceptable professional footwear.

7. Luxury Wear

Definition

Luxury wear represents the pinnacle of the fashion hierarchy. It is characterized by high price points, exclusivity, superior quality materials, and exceptional craftsmanship. It is often driven by brand heritage and status.

The Hierarchy of Luxury

A. Haute Couture ("High Sewing")

• Definition: Custom-fitted clothing designed and constructed by hand for a specific client.
• Regulation: The term is legally protected in France. To be a "Couture House," a brand must be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, maintain an atelier in Paris, and employ a specific number of artisans.
• Characteristics: No price limit, extremely time-consuming (hundreds of hours per garment), one-of-a-kind.

B. Prêt-à-Porter (Ready-to-Wear)

• Definition: High-quality factory-made clothing sold in finished condition in standardized sizes.
• Luxury RTW: While mass-produced, luxury RTW (e.g., Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton) maintains limited production runs, high-quality textiles, and high design value. This is the primary revenue generator for luxury fashion houses.

Key Determinants of Luxury

1. Scarcity: Limited availability creates demand.
2. Heritage: The history and story behind the brand (e.g., Hermès began as a harness workshop).
3. Craftsmanship: Emphasis on hand-finishing, embroidery, and textile innovation.
4. Logo/Monogram: Visual markers of status (though "Quiet Luxury"—high quality without visible logos—is a cyclical trend).