Unit 6: Fashion Globalization

Overview: The Scope of Fashion Globalization

Fashion globalization refers to the worldwide integration of fashion trends, production, markets, and cultural exchange. It marks the shift from local or national dress to a unified global fashion system where trends originating in one capital (e.g., Paris) are instantaneously consumed and adapted in another (e.g., Tokyo or Sao Paulo).

Topic 1: Fashion Capitals of the World

A "Fashion Capital" is a city that holds a significant influence on international fashion trends, is home to major fashion weeks, houses headquarters of luxury brands, and significantly contributes to the global fashion economy.

1. The "Big Four"

These four cities traditionally dictate the fashion calendar and hold the most prestige.

A. Paris, France (The Capital of Haute Couture)

• Significance: Widely regarded as the premier fashion capital. It is the birthplace of Haute Couture (high sewing).
• Key Institution: Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
• Characteristics: Focus on artistry, craftsmanship, and tradition. It is the only city legally permitted to grant the "Haute Couture" designation.
• Key Designers/Houses: Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy.
• Key District: The "Golden Triangle" (Avenue Montaigne, Avenue George V, and Rue François 1er).

B. Milan, Italy (The Capital of Prêt-à-Porter and Textiles)

• Significance: Rose to prominence in the 1970s and 80s. Known for luxury ready-to-wear (Prêt-à-Porter), superior textiles, and leather goods.
• Key Institution: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
• Characteristics: Glamour, sex appeal, and high-quality industrial production. It bridges the gap between commerciality and art.
• Key Designers/Houses: Prada, Armani, Versace, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana.
• Key District: The Quadrilatero della Moda (Via Montenapoleone).

C. London, United Kingdom (The Capital of Youth and Subculture)

• Significance: Historically the center of men's tailoring (Savile Row) but revolutionized global fashion through youth subcultures (Mods, Punks, New Romantics) in the 1960s and 70s.
• Key Institution: British Fashion Council.
• Characteristics: Eccentricity, innovation, avant-garde creativity, and rebellion. Home to elite fashion schools like Central Saint Martins.
• Key Designers/Houses: Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Stella McCartney.
• Key District: Bond Street, Savile Row, Carnaby Street.

D. New York City, USA (The Capital of Sportswear and Commerce)

• Significance: Rose to prominence during WWII when Paris was occupied. It pioneered the concept of "American Sportswear"—functional, chic clothing for the modern woman.
• Key Institution: Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).
• Characteristics: Wearability, functionality, commercial viability, and marketing prowess. Known for minimalism and street-style influence.
• Key Designers/Houses: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford.
• Key District: The Garment District (Seventh Avenue).

2. Emerging Fashion Capitals

Globalization has decentralized fashion, allowing other cities to rise based on specific cultural aesthetics or economic power.

• Tokyo, Japan: Known for Harajuku street style and avant-garde deconstructionism. It bridges traditional kimonos with hyper-modern technology. (Key names: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo).
• Shanghai, China: The gateway to the massive Asian luxury market. Focuses on manufacturing innovation and blending Chinese heritage with western silhouettes.
• Mumbai/Delhi, India: A hub for intricate embroidery, textiles, and sustainable "slow fashion." Major supplier of embellishments for global luxury houses.
• Copenhagen, Denmark: The global leader in Sustainable Fashion and Scandinavian minimalism (Scandi-style).

Topic 2: Fashion Innovators Around the World

Fashion innovators are designers or visionaries who altered the course of fashion history through technique, silhouette, technology, or business models.

1. The Historical Revolutionaries

• Charles Frederick Worth (UK/France): The "Father of Haute Couture." He was the first to put labels on clothes and use live models.
• Coco Chanel (France): Liberated women from corsets. Introduced the concept of "casual chic," the use of jersey fabric, and the "Little Black Dress" (LBD).
• Christian Dior (France): Created the "New Look" (1947)—cinched waists and full skirts—which revitalized the fashion industry post-WWII.

2. The Deconstructionists & Avant-Garde

• Rei Kawakubo (Japan - Comme des Garçons): Challenged Western standards of beauty by creating clothes that distorted the body shape (lumps, bumps, unfinished hems).
• Martin Margiela (Belgium): Pioneer of deconstruction (taking garments apart and reassembling them) and upcycling. Known for anonymity and avoiding the press.

3. The Technologists

• Issey Miyake (Japan): Famous for "Pleats Please," a technique where garments are pleated after being cut and sewn, creating permanent pleats that never wrinkle. He merged technology with fabric.
• Iris van Herpen (Netherlands): Fuses fashion with science and biology. A pioneer in using 3D printing to create Haute Couture structures that traditional sewing cannot achieve.

4. The Modern Disruptors

• Virgil Abloh (USA - Off-White/Louis Vuitton): Bridged the gap between Streetwear and Luxury. He brought hip-hop culture and industrial design into elite French fashion houses.
• Demna Gvasalia (Georgia - Balenciaga/Vetements): Known for "anti-fashion," oversized silhouettes, and turning mundane objects (like IKEA bags) into luxury items.

Topic 3: Fashion Icons

A fashion icon is a person whose style influences the public imagination, dictates trends, and has a lasting impact on global fashion culture. Icons often transcend their primary profession (acting, singing, politics) to become symbols of an era.

1. Political and Royal Icons

• Jackie Kennedy Onassis: Popularized the "First Lady" look: pillbox hats, oversized sunglasses, tailored suits, and pearls. Symbolized American elegance in the 1960s.
• Princess Diana: Evolved from "Shy Di" in ruffles to a global superstar in Versace and Dior. Used fashion as a diplomatic tool and eventually as a statement of independence (the "Revenge Dress").

2. Cinema and Entertainment Icons

• Audrey Hepburn: The muse of Hubert de Givenchy. Popularized the bateau neckline, capri pants, and flats. Symbolized gamine, timeless elegance.
• Marilyn Monroe: The ultimate symbol of glamour and sex appeal. Popularized figure-hugging dresses and high heels.
• Madonna: The queen of reinvention. Introduced underwear-as-outerwear (Jean Paul Gaultier’s cone bra), layered jewelry, and punk influences to the mainstream.

3. The Supermodels

• Twiggy (1960s): The face of "Swinging London." Popularized the mod look, miniskirts, and heavy lower-lash eyeliner.
• The "Trinity" (1990s): Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington. They marked the era where models became celebrities, influencing global trends more than actresses.

4. Contemporary and Digital Icons

• Rihanna: Recognized for risk-taking and versatility. Launched Fenty, forcing the industry to address inclusivity in sizing and skin tone ranges (the "Fenty Effect").
• Harry Styles / Billy Porter: Modern icons of Gender Fluidity. They challenge toxic masculinity by wearing skirts, dresses, and pearls on red carpets, signaling a global shift toward unisex fashion.
• Zendaya: Represents Gen Z fashion—chameleon-like ability to reference vintage fashion history while remaining modern.

Summary of Key Terminology